![]() If you don’t have it in you to invest 90 minutes of fire tending and cabbage sitting, Citrin suggests this hack: charring the cabbage in the coals and then finishing it in a 375-degree oven for 45 minutes to an hour. The triple-threat combo of the sumac, lemon zest, and lemon juice-spiked yogurt dip formed a perfect tangy foil to all that depth of flavor. Once I scraped off the excess ash, the inside of the cabbage was custardy, smoke-tinged, and almost caramel-sweet. The second time, I sparked up two chimneys, covered a 2.5-pounder in white, hot coals, and waited too long. I was left rotating my proportionally meager pile of coals every 15 minutes or so. The first time, I foolishly ignored the recipe’s recommendation for a 2-pound cabbage and couldn’t fully bury my 5-pounder. Each time it took varying degrees of effort depending on the nature of the fire and the size of the cabbage, and each time it yielded a different result that was always tender, consistently smoky, and extremely satisfying-sort of like cooking a steak! In fact, the parallels are uncanny should you find yourself repeatedly ember roasting cabbage.Įmber roasting is not an exact science. chef Josiah Citrin opened the pioneering wood-fire-focused steakhouse Charcoal in Venice, the cabbage quickly became a best seller, despite the fact it was competing with salty, juicy, fatty, meaty foodstuffs genetically predisposed to trigger dopamine reactions in diners.Ĭitrin’s cookbook Charcoal: New Ways to Cook With Fire contains a recipe for the cabbage, so I gave it a whirl twice this week. Ember-roasting is a technique by which preposterously cheap vegetables become transcendently smokey, unctuous, and sweet after a hellacious hour or so buried in red hot embers. We live in the golden era of the large format vegetable: the whole roasted cauliflowers at Israeli chain Miznon and New York’s ABC Kitchen, the celebrated salt-baked Japanese turnips at dearly departed PYT, and the ember-roasted cabbage at Charcoal in Venice. Put those pics on Instagram, tag and use the hashtag #GrillThisNow. ![]() Follow along, and if you make the recipes, too, we’d love to see how they come out. ![]() The grill is hot! Every Friday until it gets too cold, Sunset food editor Hugh Garvey will present the recipes he’s putting on his three (!) grills in Los Angeles.
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